The Magic Hours

By Wendy

October settles in, the sun sets earlier and there is a chill in the air, and for some reason the atmosphere makes me think of Paris, March 2025.

I’m battling a cold. Me, who rarely gets sick, is hit with a bad cold the second day of an anticipated family trip to a favorite city. I had to miss part of an outing on Sunday and went to bed early. In Paris. Unacceptable. The next day I’m determined to rally.

I wake early and join my family from breakfast to searching for a store to repair my nephew’s glasses to sightseeing to noon Mass at Notre Dame to walking walking walking, adding weight when we buy books from Shakespeare and Co, walking walking and once we get back to the hotel, decide we are going back out walking to catch a boat along the Seine. It’s my Mom’s first visit to Paris and this is a no-question must-do activity. Timing is tight so we need to hustle.

I’m exhausted but the scenery is energizing and enchanting so I say it aloud as we walk across a bridge, I love this time of day.

Me too! A random lady exclaims. We turn. She looks like she’s just left the office and is carrying files and papers.

We smile and nod, I continue elaborating the merits of twilight for my family: the workday is usually wrapping up, the sky is beautiful, it’s almost time for a cocktail…

It’s always time for a cocktail, the lady sings out, unmistakable American English.

My mom’s impulse to talk to a friendly stranger is too much to resist and she slows down, asking the lady where’s she’s from, if she lives in Paris.

The lady lives in Paris. She confirms, “it’s a good life.”

My mom presents her with a small bottle of bourbon from our home state. Mom travels with these items for this exact type of interaction. “Well aren’t you fun!” the lady says, accepting the gift. Now she has a story for later.

We say good-bye because we need to walk faster to make sure we are on the boat in time.

We are on the boat in time. It’s colder, especially with the breeze on the river but I feel pretty great. No common cold could be a match for this incredible beauty. My family is nearby, we sit close on the seats. There is a countdown as we near the Eiffel Tower, the lights sparkle and cast their spell on new and return visitors.

It’s late, we are hungry. We walk back to dinner at one of our favorite bistros and we are tired but it’s warm, the food is delicious, restorative. An evening when you feel at home when you’re far from home.